Augsberger Brewing Co.
Stevens Point, WI
The Monarch Brewing Co. originally produced the Augsburger brands—golden and dark Bavarian-style beers—from 1959 to 1967. The brands passed to the Potosi Brewing Co., then to Huber, and to Stroh’s. Pabst acquired Augsburger, which has licensed the brewing and distribution to Stevens Point Brewery, which is producing an all-malt version true to the earliest recipe.
Alcohol by weight: 3.8
I was worried that they might have ruined this once fine beer. I needn’t have. Wisconsin’s Point Brewery does a fine job. Brown, soft and luscious. Augsburger Dark takes me back to my mis-spent youth when this kind of dark beer was a real adventure. Nostalgia blooms in the strangest ways. This is as good as any brown ale, that’s certain. So friendly. I think it’s better than ever now. Oh, about that green bottle....
This beer has a pretty color: a nice garnet brown capped by a thin tan head that drops away quickly. The nose is pleasantly bready, with strong caramel notes. The palate is slightly sweet, with caramel at the front of the tongue and light balancing hops in the center. The finish is thin, quick and clean. It’s a one-note beer, but the note is nice enough; it reminds me of Mexico’s Negra Modelo. Try it with seared scallops, grilled pork chops or steaks.
The head is not substantial, but lingers soundly enough. Dark malts paint the brew a deep mahogany, with lots of red tinting. The aroma is of soft, light maltiness, with a piquant hop essence. The mouthfeel is somewhat light, but the dark malts keep the beer from being too dry. It has all the elements of a true Bavarian-style dunkel. Somewhat assertive, but pleasant bitterness. The flavor has the signature depth of an all-malt beer. This peripatetic brew was one of my favorites from a generation ago, it has gotten better.