Christian Moerlein
Cincinnati, OH
Beer Talk
Dunkel
Published September 2005, Volume 26, Number 4
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Charles Finkel
My introduction to this dunkel was at a luncheon of grilled sausage sandwiches. It was a cohesive combination: the deep round maltiness of the beer contrasting with the spicy sausage, piquant mustard, vinegary sauerkraut and grainy roll. My second tasting is less savor and more science. The beer boasts a bright, burnt umber palette but, alas, the head immediately disappears. The nose is shy, with subtle hints of roasted malt. Flavor is full and malt accented, with a delicate dose of hops, mostly in the aftertaste.
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Michael Jackson
Chestnut color. A hint of cocoa powder on the nose. Slightly medicinal. Dryish caramel and toastiness in the palate. The kind of dark lager that mainstream American brewers made before the micro movement. Where’s the malt? Where’s the middle? Where’s the finish? Has Christian Moerlein selected reverse gear?
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Stan Hieronymus
The body is as handsome as an antique sideboard, a lovely reddish-brown topped by a quickly disappearing tan head. Opens with an aroma of bread crusts you expect of the style, giving way to chocolate and a surprising dash of fruit. Clean and smooth on the palate, slightly sweet, with more chocolate, then a lingering impression of caramel and nuts. Finishes moderately dry, the hops providing balance and a bit of spice. Not quite as complex, rich or substantial as some dunkels, but quite drinkable.
