Buyer's Guide for Beer Lovers

Ale

Ale’s What Cures Ya!

Bitter and ESB

Bitter is an English specialty, and very much an English term, generally denoting the standard ale—the “session” beer—in an English brewer’s range. They are characterized by a fruitiness, light-to-medium body and an accent on hop aromas more than hop bitters. Colors range from golden to copper. Despite the name, they are not particularly bitter. Indeed, British brewed bitters will often be less bitter than U.S. craft-brewed amber ales. A fuller-bodied bitter is labeled as “Extra Special Bitter” (ESB). These weightier versions of bitter often stand up better to the rigors of travel overseas than the lower gravity standard versions. An important element of faithful bitters is the use of English yeast cultures in fermentation. These impart a fruity, mildly estery character that should be noted in examples of the style. Bitters are now widely emulated in North America, sometimes with domestically grown hops imparting a rather more assertive character than seen in traditional English bitters.

Interpreting the 100-point Scale

Consumers can translate the point score to the following quality bands:

Point Range Quality Band
96-100 points Platinum
90-95 points Gold
85-90 points Silver
80-84 points Bronze
Less than 80 Not Recommended
Legend
  • = Brewpub
  • ABV = Alcohol by volume
  • Date denotes the date on which the beer was tasted

91 Combined Harvest Multigrain Beer, Batemans (England). 4.7% ABV (2/09)
Brilliant pale amber color with a lacy head. Aromas of buttered multigrain toast and orange marmalade follow through on a soft, round entry to a crisp, dryish medium-to-full body with lively citrus acidity and walnut praline notes. Finishes with a tangy, palate stimulating fade of cocoa, nuts and mild citrusy hops. A superb food beer.

90 Tomos Watkin Lovely Ale, The Hurns Brewing Co. (Wales). 4.5% ABV (2/09)
Deep amber color with a frothy head. Mild toasted buttermilk biscuit and toasted grain aromas follow through on a round, supple entry to a dryish medium body with a fine mesh of nuts and dried autumn fruits. Finishes with a snappy wisp of praline and earthy hops.

90 Propeller Extra Special Bitter, Propeller Brewing Co. (Canada). 5% ABV (2/07)
Deep copper chestnut color. Dark brown sugar, roasted grain and baked lemon aromas follow through to a very soft and creamy light-to-medium body of light molasses, dark toast and tangy lemon custard flavors. Finishes with a mellow roasted nut, citrus peel and wet earth fade. Very pure and mild—an authentic British-styled ESB.

89 Tomos Watkins Old Style Bitter, The Hurns Brewing Co. (Wales). 4.5% ABV (2/09)
Hazy burnished amber color with a fine mousse. Aromas of cocoa-dusted nuts, dried apple, cooked okra and raisin toast follow through on a supple, finely frothy entry to a dryish medium body with tangy mild citrus and cream notes and a refreshing white nut-accented fade. A spot-on bitter.

89 Honkers Ale, Goose Island Brewing Co. (IL). 4.3% ABV (2/09)
Beautiful pure amber color. Lightly yeasty aromas of sourdough, roasted nuts and mild custard follow through on a supple entry to a dryish medium body with hints of dried citrus and grassy earth. Finishes with a tangy, yet round nut and unsweetened chocolate-accented fade. A nice balance of traditional bitter ale and vibrant craft ale zestiness.

88 Younger’s Special Bitter Ale, Rogue Ales (OR). 5% ABV (2/09)
Deep amber color with a fine blanket of manila foam. Roasted pecans and pumpernickel toast aromas follow through on a bright, vibrant entry to a dry medium-full body with firm tart grapefruit peel hoppiness and a nut skin-accented fade. A boisterous, West Coast hophead domestic version of bitter ale.
ESB

94 Bachelor ESB, Deschutes Brewery (OR). 5.3% ABV (3/09)
Deep amber color with a manila blanket of foam. Aromas of chocolate-dusted dried citrus and panettone follow through on a round, supple entry to a dryish medium body with great depth and balance. Finishes with a bright, crisp, grapefruit-like hop fade. A great, hoppier U.S. take on the classic British style.

91 Propeller Extra Special Bitter, Propeller Brewing Co. (Canada). 5% ABV (2/08)
Reddish mahogany color. Roasted nut, soy and smoky, seared and caramelized pork loin aromas follow through to a round, vibrant and frothy entry and a dryish medium-to-full body with a very crisp bittering hops finish. A must-try beer for BBQ!

87 Otter Head, Otter Brewery (England). 5.8% ABV (2/08)
Hazy copper color. Rich aromas of mocha, dried autumn and tropical citrus fruits and toffee. A round, supple entry leads to a dry-yet-fruity medium-full body of dry caramel, roasted nuts and tangy citrus peels. Finishes with a fine expression of classic earthy hops and a bit of pepper. A spot on ESB with well integrated flavors.

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  1. 1

    And why wouldn’t Fuller’s London Pride or Fuller’s ESB be included in such a list? They make what many Brits might consider the classic Bitter.

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