The local multi-tap has one of the rare kegs of Life and Limb, the brewing collaboration between Sierra Neveda and Dogfish Head. Served by the half-pint, the 10 percent ABV beer is opaque black in the glass, and I feared-given the use of both maple and birch syrups in the brew-that it would err on the strong and sticky side. Silly me. These two breweries have not only married their families’ ingredients and house yeasts in the creation of Life and Limb: they’ve brought their respective strengths to the brewhouse. The result is both daring and balanced: it is lush and fruity, but with a graceful, dry finish, and the beer wears its considerable strength with understated confidence. Beautifully done.
Published November 2009, Volume 30, Number 5