Blondes Are Beautiful

By Rob Haiber Published May 2001, Volume 22, Number 2
Buzzards Bay Golden Ale
Russian River Brewing Damnation
Moortgat Duvel
Scaldis/Bush

A blonde, a blonde, I need a blonde. Being a bit particular, not just any blonde, of course, will do.

For some unknown reason, blondes seem to have been lost in the shuffle, even in Britain.

No, I need a delicious blonde with a certain character, a certain aura; a well-balanced blonde who, when held, gives a man a warm feeling inside; a blonde with a lovely appearance and a spectacular body; in short, a knockout, drop-dead natural blonde who would stun me again and again.

What? What about brunettes and redheads? Oh, now I see—no, you misunderstand. No, no. Ahhhh, you’ve got it all wrong there. I’m not talking about those blondes! No, not women! I meant blonde beer! Blonde ale, to be precise.
But I wouldn’t mind having one—just as described, too.

Sometimes the French 
Get It Right

French speakers use the word “blonde” to describe yellow-colored beer. English speakers use the word “golden.” (To avoid unsavory comparisons, it’s obvious why we don’t call blonde ale “yellow,” except as a derisory term. And “gold” evokes such a teeth-cracking metallic image.)

Unlike the human variety, blonde ales have been ignored or overlooked in favor of the shiny penny and midnight colored beer styles: the various bitters, pale ales, porters and stouts.

Now, if you would please direct your attention to the stage, I shall introduce you to our blonde finalists chosen from the many light-colored ale styles brewed in Britain, Europe, and North America. On the left, ahem, is the British blonde; on the right is the North American blonde; and in the middle is the Belgian blonde.

The British Blonde

For some unknown reason, blondes seem to have been lost in the shuffle, even in Britain. This is a bit perplexing, as an examination of 1,005 British cask ales reveals that 126, or 12.5 percent, are blondes. Several others may be found lurking under the guise of “summer ale.” That is a not insignificant figure, yet blondes are rarely mentioned.

The style was pioneered in 1986 by Somerset Brewery at Wiveliscombe. Since then, the number of craft brewers producing them has exploded. The development of the style may be viewed as a response to the popularity of yellow lager, an effort to regain market share. In blondes, craft brewers have a product that pubs can offer punters as an alternative to lager—same color, more tasty. Too, those seeking to distinguish themselves in the marketplace have an offering that consumers perceive as different from the standard ales most breweries produce: one, two, or three bitters; a porter or stout; and a mild.

Rob Haiber, an internationally recognized beer judge and style expert, is no expert on blondes. He wishes it to be known, however, that he is studying the subject.
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Tasting Notes

  • Buzzards Bay Golden Ale

    Medium amber colored and brilliant clarity; tight ecru head of good duration. Very clean nose; firm, substantial body for this style and alcohol content; nice aroma of hops over malt. Pleasantly fizzy with good carbonation rate. Hop dominant, but low-key; no spikes on the palate. Slow fade to dry finish, with malt nicely balancing the hop. Exquisite. Drinks bigger than it is. Yellow fizzy-water drinkers! Empty your refrigerators of that bilge and stock it with this instead. This is the epitome of what a high-quality session beer should be.

    ABV: 4.3%
  • Russian River Brewing Damnation

    A rare American bottle-conditioned interpretation of a Belgian strong golden. Appealing medium amber colored; white head of good duration; clean nose; firm bodied, as expected. Complex fruity and estery notes of banana and pear on the nose, with hints of spices over malt. Excellent carbonation. Starts off very sweet on the palate, like pastilles, the hard, round French citrus candies of my youth, balanced with hops; a very fine finish that it long and slow-fading. If there were ever an MVB (Most Valuable Brewer) award, Damnation's brewer would win it. He brewed his brains out with this one.

    ABV: 7.75%
  • Moortgat Duvel

    A beer held in the highest esteem by experts. Bright amber and brilliant; huge white head of long duration that laces the glass; clean nose, for style; full-bodied; lovely hop nose, with lemon, pineapple, and slightly musty notes. Perfectly conditioned; malt-dominant, with the hop slowly asserting itself. Well balanced and somewhat dry finish, which is superb throughout. All components are exceedingly well balanced. Lovely.

    ABV: 8.5%
  • Scaldis/Bush

    This tremendous 12 percent ABV beer is second to none, and proudly resides high up on my Top 25 list. Deep amber with a copper tint; brilliant; big ecru head of long duration. Clean nose; huge, firm body; malt, and more malt, with some esters on the nose, and a whiff of Grand Marnier. Carbonation is somewhat low but appropriate to style. Malt syrupy on the palate, with hops to balance, plus an attack of alcoholic warming. Long, exquisite, malt-dominant finish that ends mellow, sweet and warm.

    ABV: 12%

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