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Munich Dunkel

By K. Florian Klemp Published November 2002, Volume 23, Number 5
Ayinger Altbairisch Dunkel
Warsteiner Premium Dunkel
Lobko Dark Lager
Rebel Garnet
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Bavarian Bliss

Bavaria, from Munich in the south to Kulmbach in the north, continues to offer almost unlimited sampling of dunkels from the many world-class breweries. Most breweries will include a dunkel in their portfolio and one would expect subtle variations from brewery to brewery and even some keller-style unfiltered ones on draft. Some might have the designation “Alt” in their moniker. This simple means “old” as in “old-style” and shouldn’t be confused with the top-fermenting altbiers of Dusseldorf. Those from northern Bavaria may be a little darker in some cases and have a detectable roasty edge to them.

One could spend weeks or even months exploring the range of large and small breweries in Bavaria, and several good guidebooks are available. Graham Lees’s Good Beer Guide to Munich and Bavaria and Larry Hawthorn’s The Beer Drinkers’ Guide to Munich are excellent starting points with which to plan a trip.

There is no shortage of outstanding dunkels via export. One classic is Ayinger Altbairisch Dunkel, which is widely distributed. Other prime examples of the style are EKU Rubin (excellent on draft), Isenbeck Premium Dunkel, Lowenbrau Premium Dark, Dinkel Acker Dunkel, Warsteiner Dunkel, and Hacker-Pschorr Alt-Munich Dunkel.

K. Florian Klemp is a research analyst at Duke University in Durham, NC, and an award-winning homebrewer.
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Tasting Notes

  • Ayinger Altbairisch Dunkel

    Brewed in the shadow of the Alps by the Privatbrauerei Franz Inselkammer in Aying, Germany. Deep ruby-brown in color with a soft malty aroma. It is aged for three months and is clean and perfectly balanced. This beer comes from what is considered by many to be the finest brewery in the world. Hard to argue. A Bavarian classic.

  • Warsteiner Premium Dunkel

    Situated in Warstein, Germany, the Warsteiner brauerei has been around since 1753. Distributed far and wide, this brew is brown in color and very malty in aroma and flavor, quite full bodied and soft. It is rounded out with that wunderbar German hop character.

  • Lobko Dark Lager

    Brewed and bottled in the Czech Republic at the Lobkowicz Brewery in Vysoky Chlumec, this Bohemian dark lager has everything that the German varieties boast. The toasty, dark malt aroma and full-bodied character are accompanied by a decidedly Saaz hop influence. Lobkowicz has been brewing for over 500 years. Its dark lager is a welcome visitor to North America.

  • Rebel Garnet

    Brewed by Mestansky Pivovar in Havlickuv Brod, Czech Republic. The brewery dates to 1333. This is labeled as an amber beer, a “cross between the sweet, dark beers and the crisp, golden pilsner” but it is very much in the dunkel style. A very chewy beer that offers a complex, lightly fruity and noble hop aroma. Very rich and full-bodied with a nice caramel flavor.

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