By K. Florian Klemp Published January 2003, Volume 23, Number 6
Sierra Nevada Bigfoot 1995
Anchor Old Foghorn 1997
Pike Old Bawdy
Dogfish Head Immort Ale
A Recent Designation
The designation “barley wine” is relatively recent; it was introduced by Bass in 1903. Previously, these beers were often referred to as stock, old, or strong ales.
When one considers the somewhat random and inconsistent nature of brewing in centuries past, it is easy to imagine barley wine’s ancestors as being rather interesting in character. Wooden barrels, with their porous interior and diverse microbiological residents, were the universal storage vessels, imparting winey and lactic flavors to the profile of these bygone brews.
The attenuation, or degree of fermentation, was much less than for the weaker beers, as the yeast was either bludgeoned into submission by the alcohol content, or simply settled out before finishing the job, leaving the beer very sweet. Frequent “rousing” of the yeast, a common and necessary practice, would help the yeast to a degree, but at some point the yeast simply give up.
The sour, lactic flavors and the sweet, under-attenuated character was counteracted somewhat by the addition of copious amounts of hops. Hops not only contribute the bitterness to increase palatability, but also lend an antiseptic quality to the beer, an important consideration since it might spend months or years in casks to mature.
K. Florian Klemp is an award-winning beer writer who draws a paycheck from Duke University Medical Center in Durham, NC.
Tags: Anchor Old Foghorn 1997, Barley Wine, Dogfish Head Immort Ale, J. W. Lees Harvest Ale 1987, parti-gyle brewing, Pike Old Bawdy, Sierra Nevada Bigfoot 1995, Thomas Hardy's Ale 1994
Tasting Notes
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Sierra Nevada Bigfoot 1995
Produced by the renowned Sierra Nevadamicro, Bigfoot may be the quintessential example of the American-style barley wine. The aroma is a well-rounded blend of malt and hops with a serious dose of the latter. A small measure of caramel malt in the grist provides extra depth and color. The unmistakable aroma of American Northwest hops such as Centennial and Cascade give Bigfoot a massive hop bouquet. Excellent head retention for a high-octane brew.
ABV: 9.6%
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Anchor Old Foghorn 1997
From Anchor Brewing Co., Old Foghorn was probably the first barley wine offered by an American brewery during the recent craft beer renaissance. Rich, complex and robust with a little more emphasis on the malt. Both hop bitterness and aroma is most appealing, but not as hearty as some other examples. A soft, warming, and smooth brew. Old Foghorn evokes maritime images. Could there be a better match for a cool, damp evening in the salty air? Broadly distributed.
ABV: 8.7%
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Pike Old Bawdy
The color is deep reddish-brown and the aroma is a volatile merger of caramel maltiness, alcohol, and rich hoppiness. Faintly detectable in the aroma are cherry-chocolate and smoky notes. The grist does indeed contain some peat-smoked malt. The flavor is rich, clean and balanced, with the peated malt offering an interesting bit of extra character. This big brew finished fairly dry.
ABV: 10.0%
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Dogfish Head Immort Ale
A wonderful floral hop aroma and an excellent hop flavor with just enough bitterness to counterbalance the rich, full body and malty sweetness.. Dogfish Head uses organic juniper berries and vanilla in this gargantuan brew, and fortifies the wort with pure Massachusetts maple syrup to augment the malt sugars. Both ale and champagne yeasts are employed to ensure clean and full fermentation. Also present is a light smokiness that comes from the use of peat-smoked malt in the grain bill. Few brews are this multifaceted. Dark amber in color.
ABV: 11.0%
