Scotch Ale: Strong and Smooth

By K. Florian Klemp Published November 2003, Volume 24, Number 5
Skullsplitter Ale
McEwan’s Scotch Ale
Belhaven Wee Heavy
Old Jock Ale

To the Present

Scotch ales tend to be a specialty brew. They share much of their profile with many other strong beers, yet retain more individuality. The brewers who make them are scattered throughout Scotland, from the southern borders, to the remote Orkney archipelago in the north. Often the brewers refer to their individual brews by the shilling designations, a remnant of an old taxation system.

It is important to distinguish between Scottish and Scotch ales. Scottish ales called 60 (light), 70 (heavy), or 80 (export) shilling are in the range of 2.5 percent to 5.0 percent ABV. Scotch ale, or wee heavy, starts at 90 shilling and usually measures at least 6.5 percent ABV, with an original gravity of about 1.070. Some historical Scotch ales might be as high as 140 shilling, with a starting gravity of 1.125, although the scale has slid downward some over the last 150 years. Today’s 80 shilling might be equivalent to a 60 shilling of 1850.

The base malt of a Scotch ale is not dissimilar to those used in English ale. It is highly-modified for single-temperature mashing. It may be kilned to a slightly higher temperature after drying to attain a burnished color. The effect is a less fermentable wort, with a bit more mouthfeel than beer made with a pale ale malt.

Historically, most beers produced in Great Britain up to the end of the 18th century would have exhibited a smoky character due to the wood, peat or, later, coke used in drying prior to the development of modern indirect-heated malt kilns. Historical Scottish beers were very “peaty” in many cases.

When green barley was steeped in water prior to sprouting, a small portion of the barleycorns floated. This “slack” malt was roasted and used in the grist, and imparted a little color and flavor from the charred malt. During the porter craze of the late 18th century, amber and brown malts were used extensively. These base malts had varying degrees of intense kilning and contributed deep colors to wort and even a little more toasty flavor.

K. Florian Klemp is a research analyst at Duke University in Durham, NC, and an award-winning homebrewer.
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Tasting Notes

  • Skullsplitter Ale

    The quintessential Scotch ale. Brewed at Orkney Brewery on the windswept Orkney archipelago off the northern coast of Scotland in the town of Quoyloo. Named after the notorious Thorfinn Hausakluif (the skullsplitter himself), who was the seventh Viking Earl of Orkney about 1,000 years ago. Rich, malty, with a pronounced smoky character and very smooth, it sports a dark brown color.

    ABV: 8.5%
  • McEwan’s Scotch Ale

    Brewed by Scottish Courage Ltd. in Edinburgh, originally by appointment to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. Reddish brown in color, with caramel, cherry, apple, treacle aromas. The flavor is lightly smoky, with a soft buttery background and a creamy malt finish. The aroma intensifies as it warms and has a light sherry note.

    ABV: 8.0%
  • Belhaven Wee Heavy

    Brewed in the coastal city of Dunbar. Dark amber in color, fairly smoky, with a complex earthy and malty aroma. The flavor is also quite malty, the body a little drier than most other Scotch ales. This beer is at once austere yet complex. An inviting soft, smoky and butterscotch character.

    ABV: 6.5%
  • Old Jock Ale

    Brewed by Broughton Ales in the Borders. Old Jock is named for the soldiers (jocks) of the highlands and lowlands who favored strong ales. The aroma is slightly winey with a decided malt character. It has none of the smokiness found in others and is relatively well attenuated. It has a medium mouthfeel and a soft, soothing finish.

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