By K. Florian Klemp Published November 2004, Volume 25, Number 5
Adnams Suffolk Special Bitter
Coniston Bluebird Bitter
Rogue Younger’s Special Bitter
Young’s Ramrod
English beers have an immutable character. Subtleties are contributed by water condition and yeast, and the product is, to this palate, sometimes reminiscent of minerals. Often hard water is used for brewing pale ales and bitters, which can contribute to the “hard” character, but it is deeper than that. Centuries of selective yeast culling might be a more significant contributor, and perhaps many of the strains are related in one way or another. Fruitiness is yet another by-product that one would expect in an English bitter, not overwhelming, but simply another strand in the filigree.
Bitter Rank
Bitters are often pigeonholed into one of three different classifications based on original gravity and alcohol content, with a concomitant hop rate that puts them within a respective balance. The fairest of the lot is ordinary bitter. With an alcohol by volume (ABV) rating of less than 4 percent, ordinaries are perfect session beers. They are dark gold to copper in color and could be considered a summer beverage. With plenty of malt backbone to back up the hops, an ordinary bitter is proof that a beer need not be big to be beautiful. Hop rates run up to about 35 International Bittering Units (IBU).
The middle wrung on the bitter ladder is occupied by special, or best, bitters. Less than 4.6 percent ABV, it is simply a strong version of an ordinary—still a session beer, a little more filling, and with a tad more malt character. Most of the bitters fall into this category. Up to 40 IBU helps offset the more lavish character of a best bitter.
At the top of the hierarchy are extra special or strong bitters. They range from 4.6 to as much as 6 percent ABV and over 50 IBU. Still very quaffable, they generally have a stiff maltiness and some more complexity owing to the sheer increase in raw materials. Sometimes offered as a seasonal, these are very satisfying brews.
K. Florian Klemp is an award-winning brewer and beer writer who lives in Durham, NC.
Tags: best bitter, Bitter, CAMRA, English ale, extra special bitter, ordinary bitter, pale ale, real ale, special bitter, strong bitter
Tasting Notes
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Adnams Suffolk Special Bitter
Brewed by the Sole Bay Brewery in Southwold, Suffolk, England. Soft, unassuming aroma, with a crisp hop nose and reserved malt background. Full amber in color, it sports a quilted half-inch, long-lasting head. Light caramel malt taste, drying finish, and a bit of mineral. A straight-on, quenching beer that is very drinkable. In the “special” category at 4.5 percent ABV.
ABV: 4.5%
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Coniston Bluebird Bitter
The Champion Beer of the Great British Beer Festival in 1998. Made with Maris Otter malt, Challenger hops, and “water from the fells,” Bluebird is everything a session beer should be. It is bottle conditioned, gold-amber in color, and it pours with a tight, short head. It has a mellow, flowery aroma that is very clean. Faint caramel taste, with a firm body for a special bitter. Dry finish. The accolades are well earned.
ABV: 4.2%
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Rogue Younger’s Special Bitter
Named after famed proprietor Don Younger of the Horse Brass Pub in Portland, OR. Orange-copper color, with a sweet-malt aroma, and a bit of the citrusy hop nose that is characteristic of the northwest US brews. East Kent Goldings and Willamette give an Anglo-American character. Nice balance of hop bitterness to go with the caramel malt palate. YSB is an example of an American-accented bitter, but it is true to style.
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Young’s Ramrod
This London brewery has been at its current location since 1581. Pours red-amber with an off-white head. The aroma is bready, with some caramel, nutty nuances. There is a little more hop aroma than in most other bitters. The flavor is malty, with a solid hop kiss. It finishes dry and herbal, as a premium ESB should. Hopped with both East Kent Goldings and Fuggles to add a touch of complexity. Quite a substantial ale for its strength.
ABV: 5.0%
