By K. Florian Klemp Published March 2005, Volume 26, Number 1
Samuel Smith’s Imperial Stout
North Coast Brewing Old Rasputin
Victory Brewing Storm King Stout
Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout
Imperial Idiosyncrasy
It is rather simple to qualify the basic character of an imperial stout, which sounds foolish, considering that they are as complex as any beer. The commonality among imperial stouts is that they are big and roasty. Beyond that, it is pointless to pigeonhole them because of that very same complexity. Almost any type of malt could be used, as could any type of hop. The subtleties and nuances are what make these beers distinctive.
Like any beer, an imperial stout relies on a foundation of high-quality base pale malt, which, of course, would comprise the majority of the grist. The requisite roasted barley is used at roughly the same percentage as in smaller stouts, somewhere around 8 to 10 percent. The remainder spans the malt continuum at the brewer’s discretion. Chocolate malt is a popular addition, as is caramel or even Munich malt. These character malts should not sit in the forefront of the overall profile, but should serve as a brushstroke in the palette of depth that makes a good imperial stout. Unusual grain additions are uncommon but not altogether absent. Oatmeal or wheat can add a creaminess and aid in head retention, which is often a problem in high-alcohol beers. The high proportion of character malt leaves a fairly substantial amount of residual body and full mouthfeel.
The hop character of imperial stout can run from fairly low, putting the maltiness up front, to somewhat forceful, adding some balance and yet more character. Hop variety is not terribly critical, but any of the catty, American types that are high in alpha acid might interfere a little too much with subtleties. Some do exhibit that signature Northwest US hop profile, and do it well enough to put a footprint of America in the brew without throwing the beer out of kilter. Though imperial stouts are substantial in alcoholic strength, there should not be a perception that the beer is overly attenuated. There should be a balance between the sheer muscle of the beer and the alcohol. A good brewer will make sure that this is the case.
K. Florian Klemp is an award-winning homebrewer and general hobbyist who thinks there is no more sublime marriage than that of art and science.
Tags: Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout, imperial stout, North Coast Brewing Old Rasputin, Samuel Smith’s Imperial Stout, Stone Brewing Imperial Russian Stout, Victory Brewing Storm King Stout
Tasting Notes
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Samuel Smith’s Imperial Stout
From Yorkshire’s oldest surviving brewery, Samuel Smith’s Imperial Stout was first brewed in the 1980s for the American market to honor England’s tradition of strong export ales. It pours deep brown-black with a sustained brown head. The aroma is a mixture of malted milk, dark chocolate and molasses. The mouthfeel is not overwhelming, but it is still rich and creamy, and the flavor is of roasted malt and molasses with little notice of hops. Yet another masterpiece from a world class brewery. Few beers at 7.0 percent ABV are this enthralling.
ABV: 7.0%
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North Coast Brewing Old Rasputin
Brewed in Fort Bragg, CA, and named for arguably Russia’s most notorious rapscallion, Old Rasputin Imperial Stout is equally noteworthy. It is also one of the best and most respected beers available. Black as midnight, it smells of toffee and dark roast coffee. Semisweet chocolate and rich malty flavors accompany a thick, dextrinous palate. Some dark fruit in the flavor. Deceptively drinkable. Rasputin himself would grin mischievously if he could get his hands on one of these.
ABV: 8.9%
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Victory Brewing Storm King Stout
From Downingtown, PA, Storm King is one of many excellent beers that Victory brews. It might be the best. Espresso, chocolate and alcohol emanate from this opaque elixir. Some hop character adds to the complex aroma. The flavor is dominated by the roasty notes, but hints of chocolate and raisins are quite noticeable, and the hops come through as well. There is no doubt that this is a strong beer upon tasting. It would be hard to find a better example of the style.
ABV: 9.1%
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Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout
Produced by renowned brew master and culinary expert Garrett Oliver, this seasonal imperial offering is one of the most well-rounded and complex strong beers, period. Inky black, with aromas of burnt chocolate and fruit in the nose. Creamy and smooth in the mouth. The flavor is reminiscent of malted milk, chocolate, coffee and dark fruit. This is the perfect after-dinner drink and, specifically, a dessert beer. I have no doubt that Garret was thinking about chocolate treats and/or fine cigars when he crafted this outstanding beer.
ABV: 8.5%