Imperial Stout

By K. Florian Klemp Published July 2010, Volume 31, Number 3
Samuel Smith’s Imperial Stout
North Coast Brewing Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout
Oskar Blues Ten FIDY Imperial Stout
Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout

Stout Redux

Of all the styles revived thanks to the beer renaissance in America, no style is made better more consistently than stout. Imperial stout, though, is where American brewers excel. Everything about the beer falls squarely in the wheelhouse where the mentality is to make big beer, with complex grain bills and hop schedules, and show-stopping depth. Strength and roasty bitterness are the stars, but the supporting cast is the complexity that makes a great imperial stout.

Imperial stouts have, as a matter of course, an opaque black color, given by the generous amounts of roasted barley and the espresso-like finish that defines the style. But between the base of pale malt and roast, brewers use nearly every type of brewing and specialty malt to add body, flavor and aroma as they see fit. Munich, caramel and chocolate malts are commonly used to create a dessert-like brew, with notes of bittersweet chocolate, dark dried fruit, coffee, licorice and burnt sugar in the flavor and aroma.

High protein grains like oatmeal, rye and wheat may be used to add a bit of smoothness and head retention. A creamy, hearty mouthfeel and fullness are key to offsetting the high alcohol content, usually between 8 and 11 percent ABV. Imperial stout should be neither too dense, nor too thin.

Hop profile can vary widely, and American brewers often use imperial stout to show off their kettle skills. A stiff dose of bittering hops can complement the roasted edge rather than take it overboard. Flavor and aroma additions are no different, and surprisingly, most seem to play along well with the other nuances. Most brewers would opt for traditional ale hops, be they English or American, depending on whether or not they want a traditional or nouveau profile, respectively.

If it is truly an American version you want, showcasing that aggressive, resinous Northwestern hops character, then there are plenty out there for you. In fact, there are so many stellar examples that it is hard to choose, but insanely fun to explore. Most hold up well over the long haul, so cellaring only makes the variety even more stunning.

To many, imperial stout is the absolute apex of the brewing arts, and unlike a lot of coveted brews, examples are usually lurking about nearby.

K. Florian Klemp is an award-winning homebrewer and general hobbyist who thinks there is no more sublime marriage than that of art and science.
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Tasting Notes

  • Samuel Smith’s Imperial Stout

    From the venerable Old Brewery at Tadcaster, Yorkshire’s oldest, comes this stunningly complex classic. The aroma offers some fruit (apple and raisin), roast, malted milk and a hint of anise. The flavor has dark cocoa, burnt caramel, buttery toffee and molasses, rounded out perfectly by Yorkshire square fermentation. The rich, medium-full body finishes smoothly with the slightest hint of hops. It was introduced in the 1980s as a taste for bigger beers was developing. It was a wise decision.

    ABV: 7.0%
  • North Coast Brewing Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout

    Jet black as expected, with a creamy brown head. The aroma has woodsy American hops shining amid the French roast coffee, mineral and cocoa nib notes. Medium-bodied for the style, there is a decidedly hoppy character to offset the malty, bittersweet chocolate and roasted flavor. The finish is gritty with roasted malt, and bitter from the hops. Quite appetizing for a beer of this strength, it is as mischievous as its infamous namesake, and just as worthy of legend.

    ABV: 9.0%
  • Oskar Blues Ten FIDY Imperial Stout

    This Lyons, CO, brewery has turned many heads in recent years with their offerings, and Ten FIDY is their finest effort. It looks impressive with black hole darkness, a viscous pour and brown-black head. There is molasses, espresso and cocoa in the aroma. The mouthfeel is full and silky, but not overbearing. Bitter chocolate, malt and roast dominate the flavor with a hint of black licorice stick. Massive at 10.5% ABV, but seductively drinkable, Ten FIDY is among the best America has to offer.

    ABV: 10.5%
  • Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout

    Nobody in America marries brewing and culinary arts more deftly than Garrett Oliver, brewmaster of the Brooklyn Brewery. Black Chocolate Stout is the pinnacle of this pairing. The roasty aroma features dark cocoa and dried, dark fruit. Full-bodied, creamy and rich on the palate, bittersweet chocolate and burnt toffee grace the flavor. The finish is deliciously dessert-like with just enough espresso-like, lingering roast. It pairs elegantly with many foods, especially rich desserts and aromatic cheeses.

    ABV: 10.1%

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