A Pilsner in Prague is Only the Beginning

By Michael Jackson Published March 2002, Volume 23, Number 1

The first beers to be lagered were dark brown. They were made in and around the city of Munich, empirically at first, but more methodically from the 1830s. Similar beers made in some other countries became known as Munich-style lagers (or sometimes “Bavarian” after the state).

Then, around 1840, ways were found to kiln malt without rendering it smoky and dark. The first lager made this way, with an amber color, was identified as being in the Vienna style. Finally, the first golden lager was made in 1842, in the city of Pilsen, in Bohemia, then a state in the Austrian Empire.

(When I first wrote in these terms, Bohemia and Moravia were part of Czechoslovakia. They now comprise the Czech Republic; Slovakia broke away and is now independent).

I defined pilsner, Vienna, Munich and other styles of lager such as Dortmunder and bock, in my 1977 World Guide to Beer. They appeared along with wheat beers, ales, porters and stouts under the heading “The classical beer-styles.” There were a couple of dozen definitions in all. The information that went into these summaries was not new, but I don’t think anyone had previously put it together in this way. Nor had anyone placed the styles in context.

Regarding pilsner, I went on to suggest that the term should imply not only the golden color but also a well-hopped beer, preferably using Bohemian varieties.

In the same week that he and Roger Protz won Pewter Tankards at the annual dinner of the British Guild of Beer Writers, Michael Jackson was honored at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards, in France. Jackson’s book Scotland and its Whiskies (with photography by Harry Cory Wright), published by Harcourt Brace, won the category for the Best Book on Spirits written in the English language. The awards marked a vintage year. Jackson was also honored in Finland and Italy for his writing on beer.
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    I was looking for a short answer to what the difference is between lager and pilsner. Is it the yeast? Is is the type of fermenting? Is it the aging (lAGEr). Very interesting essay however.

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