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WHAT'S BREWING

Vintage Hardy's Ale found, brewery sold

Quick-acting British beer drinkers acquired a special treat in April, when a small amount of vintage Thomas Hardy's Ale became available at the same time that the historic regional brewery was being sold. Eldridge, Pope & Co., whose origins date to 1837, sold its Thomas Hardy Brewery to a new company headed by former Courage Brewing production director Peter Ward. EP will retain a 15 percent share in the brewery at Dorchester and 40 percent in the new company set up to buy it. The new company will lease the brewery space from EP.

Eldridge Pope will retain ownership of its own beer brands to provide to the company's 200-plus tied houses and to the guest beer market. The brands include Thomas Hardy Country Bitter, Royal Oak and Thomas Hardy's Ale. Royal Oak and Hardy's Ale are exported to the United States, and Hardy's Ale has a loyal following among strong beer lovers who "lay down" beer for years before drinking it.

According to the brewery, new Eldridge Pope wine manager Matthew Cooper began doing an inventory at the brewery and found about 4,000 bottles of various year's Hardy's Ale in different cellars. The brewery made these into 300 mixed cases and offered them to readers of *What's Brewing,* the official newspaper of the Campaign For Real Ale. Little more two weeks after the April issue was distributed, all the cases were sold. Each case consisted of 11 different bottles from 20 different bottlings going back to 1981, plus a special glass. Every case included a 1983 "Royal," a 1987 cork-driven bottling and the 1993 "Silver Anniversary" bottling.

Although some claim the original bottling of 1968 is still drinkable, Ted Bruning of CAMRA maintains that full maturity comes at more like six years. He noted the beer "develops a stunning malty nose, a creamy mouthfeel, a good dose of acidity, flavours dominated by sharp fruits -- greenage in some vintages, apples in others, Seville oranges in others -- with hints of esters and caramel, and a hoppy, malty finish."

The cases sold for £49 plus £5 for shipping. The brewery received phone calls from the United States when U.S. CAMRA members received their copies of *What's Brewing,* but employees could only politely suggest the callers ask a British friend to buy them a case, since the brewery cannot legally ship the beer to the United States.

This story was posted April 20.

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