Breakside What Rough BeastDecember 15, 2017
The hour has come at last for this beer, a hazy IPA from one of Oregon’s most award-winning breweries. But all bad Yeats references aside, this beast is really a beauty—a delicious, glorious, tastefully hazy golden offering that truly is like a mouthful of tropical fruit. Your first clue comes with the aromas—guava, papaya, pineapple—and the aromas don’t lie as a tropical tidal wave floods the palate. Complex yet refreshing, the Beast doesn’t end rough but with a wonderful thread of bitterness that reminds the imbiber that Breakside’s roots are planted firmly in the Pacific Northwest.Lisa Morrison has been writing about beer for nearly 20 years. She also owns Belmont Station, a well-known bottle shop and taproom in Portland, Oregon.
Again with the murk. But the beer did announce itself as a New England IPA, albeit from the Pacific Northwest. The haze in the glass is nearly orange and is less opaque than some. The aroma is fresh “hop pocket” of a certain sort—mint, lupulin powder, onions, garlic, and a whiff of catbox. It smells better than it sounds. The bitterness is broad across the palate but avoids acridity. All this comes together into a fairly compelling and drinkable beer. No rough beast this, and really good with spicy tuna/avocado rolls.Garrett Oliver is the brewmaster of The Brooklyn Brewery, the editor-in-chief of The Oxford Companion to Beer, the author of The Brewmaster's Table and the veteran host of more than 900 beer dinners in 15 countries.