This imperial India Pale Ale pours a deep sunset orange with almost a nonexistent head. Minuscule bubbles emerge from the bottom of the glass in slow motion.

With Simcoe, Citra and Bravo hops, the Double D Double IPA holds an aroma of ripe grapefruit and mango, but as it warms, big malt takes over.

The Double D tastes more piney than the nose suggests. Tropical fruits disappear, and a sweet resin emerges. A slight alcohol tinge hits the back of the throat and then wafts back to the front of the mouth, but the IPA doesn’t quite carry the burn of 10.2 percent ABV beer. A medium-bodied, slightly dry mouthfeel culminates the experience.

Old Dominion‘s Double D Double IPA comes in 22-oz. bottles and on draft and is available in Old Dominion’s distribution area.

Be careful with this beer, and serve it at room temperature to experience the full depth. The seductive, gentle warming of these big hops will grow on you over the course of an evening,

—Daniel Bradford contributed to this review.