Saisons are a complex beer style. In Europe, you will find some challenges to narrowing the style’s definition. Numerous articles have appeared raising an eyebrow as to how tight the style should be defined. Here in the US, there appears to be some convention, perhaps romance, when it comes to the farmhouse style. We’re looking for a hazy yellow/golden with a nice tight, rich, foamy head. The nose is herbal. The finish is spicy, peppery. The kick is substantial, with some yeasty bread undercurrents. A saison says “refreshing” for century-old agricultural workers, which means today’s office workers; it’s a big complex beer under those light notes, not thuggish. Peter Egelston and his team at Smuttynose Brewing Co. have nailed it with their Farmhouse Ale, perhaps a signature saison for this country’s craft brewers, in every element. The 22 oz bomber is a perfect serving. Halfway through the second pint, I realized I was enjoying a classic and having a wonderful time doing it. Now where is the cold chicken?