Alt Köln am Dom (Trankgasse 7-9). Located across the street from the cathedral. Look for the strange astronomical clock above the entrance.
Brauereiausschanks zum Pfaffen (Heumarkt 62). An old-school pub whose decor features stained-glass depictions of Karneval.
Brauerei zur Malzmühle (Heumarkt 6). The name means “malt mill,” and its brand of Kölsch is on the malty side.
Bräuhaus Sion (Unten Taschenmacher 5). One of Cologne’s larger establishments, with a huge selection of logo merchandise.
Früh am Dom (Am Hof 12-14). A three-story complex, complete with a cobblestoned courtyard, within walking distance of the rail station.
Gaffel-Haus (Alter Markt 20-22). A busy Old Town pub. What’s a “gaffel,” you ask? In medieval times, it was part guild, part militia.
Hausbrauerei Päffgen (Freinstrasse 64-66). Cologne tradition at its best: high ceilings, tiled floors, and a main room that goes on forever.
Peters Brähaus (Mühlengasse 1). Despite being 150-plus years old, it has a vaguely Art Deco look and feel.
Sünner im Walfisch (Salzgasse 13). Defies tradition by employing female servers. The bar next door offers 10-liter kegs for a tableful to share.
By the way, that tongue-in-cheek expression “not just for breakfast anymore” applies to Kölsch. Some pubs open as early as eight in the morning to accommodate the early hours that Cologners keep.
Maryanne Nasiatka