Say “fruit beer” to many a professional beer lover and they’ll cringe. They’ll squint their eyes, maybe curl one side of their upper lip, and dismiss them as “kinda fake,” “too sweet” or the most recklessly pejorative, “girly.” So how great is it that those who most espouse the spirit of craft brewing – experimenting with limitless range of ideas and flavors including brewing with traditional and unconventional ingredients – are often the ones racing to try new beers that incorporate exotic fruits?

Beyond the celebrated cherrypalooza New Glarus Wisconsin Belgian Red, brewers everywhere are trying everything: Cigar City Guava Grove Saison, Upland Kiwi Lambic and the ephemeral (or was it?) Dogfish Head Arctic Cloudberry Imperial Wheat.

Americans are giving Belgian brewers a run for their Euros.

Burnside Brewing in Portland hosts the 1st Annual Fruit Beer Fest this weekend, offering around 20 fruit-forward beers. And these ain’t no raspberries in the wheat beer/banana in the tailpipe concoctions.

Festival organizers approached brewers with the challenge of making original beers using real whole, pureed or juiced fruits without using any of the extracts or flavorings that have contributed to giving fruit beers a bad name.

At a preview event, I sampled a tart Upright strawberry beer aged in gin barrels where the botanicals shone through, a hoppy Alameda huckleberry IPA and a roasty, spicy Hopwork’s chili stout that challenged the perception/classification of chili peppers as a fruit (but who cares when the result is reminiscent of Mexican chocolate).

What’s your favorite fruit beer? What fruit would you love to try in a beer that you haven’t come across yet?

Fruit Beers

98 Raspberry Tart, New Glarus Brewing Co. (WI). 4% ABV (8/07)
Deep ruby color. Rich fresh picked raspberry aromas. A vibrant entry leads to a richly fruity and tangy full body of tart crushed raspberries and cream of wheat-like malt. Finishes for a mile with a mouthwatering raspberry purée on toast fade. The richness, purity and depth of the 3-D raspberry flavors is amazing. A must-try fruit beer.

96 Wisconsin Belgian Red, New Glarus Brewing Co. (WI). 4% ABV (8/07)
Hazy maroon mahogany color. Perfumed bing and maraschino cherry and wheat cracker aromas. A rich, frothy entry leads to tangy, dry-yet-fruity full body of lavish mélange of cherry, almond biscotti and subtle anise flavors. Finishes with a long, mouthwatering sour cherry fade. Utterly delicious and extremely drinkable. Do so.

91 Kriek Bier, Liefmans Brewery (Belgium). 6% ABV (8/07)
Deep hazy reddish mahogany color. Wonderful aromas of baked cherries and spice follow through to a rich, tangy fruity cherry and nutty malt body with a long, tart cherry and earth finish. Rich and deep.

91 Quelque Chose, Unibroue (Canada). 8% ABV (8/08)
Russet mahogany color with a limp head. Vibrant aromas of toasty, spicy Christmas fruitcake follow through on a rich entry to a fruity full body with layers of spicy sour cherries, caramel and toast. Finishes with a long, tangy cinnamon bark and cherry coulis fade. Very nice.

91 Orange Blossom Cream Ale, Buffalo Bills Brewery (CA). 4.9% ABV (8/08)
Beautiful golden orange topaz color. Rich aromas of orange chiffon and glazed brioche follow through on a soft, gentle entry to a fruity medium body with layers of sweet creamy orange custard, orange blossom honey and delicate spice. Finishes with a nice buttered Hawaiian toast and dried white flower astringency on the fade. A brilliantly crafted fruit beer with great drinkability and appeal.

90 Imperial Cherry Amber, River Horse Brewery (NJ). 7% ABV (8/08)
Reddish copper color. Lovely buttered toast, cherry pie and toffee aromas follow through on a very creamy and round entry to a dry-yet-fruity medium-full body with excellent balanced of nut malt, dried cherry and earthy hops on the finish. A great example of a dry fruit beer, very drinkable and table-friendly with roasted and grilled foods.

89 Frambozen Bier, Liefmans Brewery (Belgium). 4.5% ABV (8/07)
Deep hazy reddish mahogany color. Raspberry jam, spice, honey and caramel aromas. A round, frothy entry leads to a tart medium-full body of raspberry, balsa and delicate spice flavors. Finishes with a medium length fade of minerals, raspberry seeds and crackers.

89 Pumpkin Ale, Buffalo Bills Brewery (CA). 4.9% ABV (8/08)
Deep amber color. Dimensional aromas of pumpkin seeds and pulp, baking spice and peppercorn bread follow through on a round entry leads to a dryish medium body with a nice savory, spicy character and hints of spiced dried apple, pear and nuts. Finishes with a nice crisp, dried citrus, pumpkin bread and praline fade.

83 Samuel Adams Longshot Grape Ale, The Boston Beer Co. (MA). 5.2% ABV (8/08)
Brilliant amber color. Praline and faint grape jelly on toast aromas follow through on a round, creamy entry to a dryish medium body with lemon of dried lemon peel and nuts. Finishes with a quick pithy nutshell and grape seed fade. Not much fruit flavor here.