The few, the very few, who follow what I write know my partiality for Deschutes Brewery beers.   There is an ineffable quality that lingers in every style, a signature quality, that keeps me coming back for more. No, I couldn’t pick one out blind from a random sample. However, a taste of any of their beers reminds me of so many perfect moments. The Hop in The Dark release is eagerly awaited because this beer is pure brewer’s art. Pouring a dark brown into a tulip glass, the head sends huge lacing all around the edges. As it sits on your tongue you experience a mélange of eight malts, six hops and some candy sugar. Combined they reminded me of boulillabaisse or paella, where the whole is clearly the sum of the parts. Spicy hops and toasted malts tickle the tongue leaving a dozen different points of flavor at the same time. I enjoyed this treat outside, late at night and toasted to fireflies that dotted the twilight.

If you haven’t already heard the news, brewmaster Larry Sidor is leaving the company at the end of the year.