The golden, light straw Brett Beer pours from the bottle with a slight haze and heavy carbonation. Bread notes float past the nose before a faint candy aroma sneaks up the glass.

The candy continues in this collaboration between New Belgium and The Lost Abbey with the first sip, and non-sour Jolly Ranchers invade the palate. The tartness reminds us of the brick-shaped hard candies, but there is no sour of which to speak. The carbonation adds a citrusy dryness to the funky Brett, and the Sorachi Ace hops give the beer a pleasant fruity character. But no grapefruit or pine needles in this hop profileonly papaya.

Brett Beer’s dry finish lingers for a surprisingly long time. Although 7.5 percent ABV, this beer hits closer to a Kölsch than a typical American wild ale.

This latest beer in New Belgium’s Lips of Faith Series comes in 22-oz. bottles and is available in New Belgium’s distribution area.

—Daniel Bradford contributed to this review.