I’ve known Adam Avery longer, and better, than I’ve known his beers; just the logic of my odd career. He’s a big guy, dark hair, with an amazing intensity evident to all when he walks into a room. He’s also a prankster. You have to keep your eyes on him. Not surprisingly, his beers mirror his personality. They tend to be big and characterful, but you have to watch out because they can be tricky. Take Salvation Golden Ale. I’ve had golden ales from two different breweries today. Come on, it’s very late and I’ve been working! Pour Salvation into a tulip glass and sit back and marvel. The color is brilliant amber gold and sparkling clear. Breathtaking. The nose is all candy without the cloying sweetness, very obvious but not assertive. A medium mouthfeel with a flurry of great carbonation. Soft, and again, not assertive. The absence of an alcohol bite in this 9 percent beer is rather extraordinary. The hops clear up the palate without hanging around, and there is a slight candy, biscuit finish. What an amazing balance. This is a very scary beer. It’s an elegant joy to drink belying the big alcohol impact. I’m refilling this glass, heading to the sauna, and calling it a night. I told you Adam was tricky.