The Fifth Element: A Sense of Place in Asian Brewing

Brewing in Asia is evolving and brewers are at the forefront of a new spectrum of flavours – and their creativity is paying off. In the latest edition of the World Beer Cup, breweries from Asia secured 21 medals overall and impressed in categories such as fruit wheat beer, herb and spice beer, experimental beer, and Brett beer.

“Years ago, brewers in Asia were pretty much trying to copy US and European beers,” says Charles Guerrier, director of the Asia Beer Championship and Asia Brewers Network. “What we’ve seen in recent years is that they are increasingly developing own flavours, working with local producers and using fruits, spices and herbs from the region. In last year’s championship, we evaluated for instance lager with purple yams and dried coconut, imperial stout with jackfruit and pandan, and gose with gardenia.”

A new book about craft beer in China will be released in October. Written by beer expert and podcaster Tian Zhou, Brewed in China: the Rise of Chinese Craft Beer (currently only available in Chinese) gives a comprehensive overview of the rise of Chinese craft beer, for the first time.

The book covers ways in which Chinese craft brewers are innovating, including use of alternative grains and local hops, and mixed fermentation with Chinese baijiu and rice wines. What is particularly fascinating is the chapter about the fifth element in brewing: local flavours. With fruits and vegetables, and a variety of teas, flowers and spices, brewers are making outstanding beers – with a real sense of place.

Mind-boggling concept of tea in beer

To get an understanding of flavours in Asia, an obvious starting point is tea – an ingredient that has great potential in beer. “Asia has a rich history in tea. China is not only the birthplace of the tea culture, we still have the most varieties and the best quality of tea,” says Tian. “More importantly, the Chinese have a history of drinking tea that spans thousands of years. We’re familiar with tea, feel a close affinity to it, and believe it’s beneficial for health. Incorporating tea into beer can, therefore, broaden the occasions for beer consumption.”

Chinese craft brewers have been making tea beer for over a decade, but what has propelled tea beer into the mainstream is a lager launched last August by Jinxing Beer, made with a local tea called Xinyang Maojian. “It’s a type of green tea that has a flavour profile close to the tea plant itself,” says Tian.

“Using a light, crisp lager as a base, the beer highlights the green tea’s elegant aroma of fresh leaves and its refreshing taste.” The beer became an instant viral hit, drawing in the general public who might not typically drink beer or even alcohol, and sparked a nationwide craze for tea-infused beers.

Ranging from green to dark, from raw to fully oxidized or partially fermented, tea offers endless possibilities for brewers. The aroma spectrum is diverse: bright and herbal, floral and fruity, more pungent, earthy and complex – brewers just need to understand the flavour profile and work out what suits the style they want, means Tian.

“With tea, you can get everything from warming, black tea-infused stouts, to tropical hibiscus-steeped blonde ales, to herbaceous green tea saisons.”

The main functions of hops in beer – preservation, bitterness and aroma – can also be achieved with tea. James Waters, director of operations at Rooster Beers in Vietnam, is an expert on using tea in beer.

“The concept of tea in Asia is mind-boggling, and it’s a luxury to have access to all these amazing teas,” he says. “There are a lot of synergies between tea and hops. With herbal and floral characteristics, as well as bitterness and astringency, tea can be seen as a complement, or even replacement, to hops.”

It helps to think of tea as an aroma hop, means Waters. “You can add tea into the whirlpool, with similar
time and temperature as you would hops, or make a cold infusion in a separate vessel and add prior to bottling,” he explains. “If you add tea during the boil, you might extract a strong, bitter note that is undesirable though.”

Fragrant jasmine and colourful hibiscus

Traditionally, flowers are used for scented tea, and similarly they can be added to beer. Jasmine is popular, both in tea and brewing – adding a delicate, floral and subtle sweet character. Often used to enhance the flavour of lagers, wheat beers and pale ales, jasmine complements the crispness and lightness in the beer. Jasmine’s properties also include anti-inflammatory and soothing effects on digestion, making it appealing beyond just the flavour contributions.

Hibiscus is also a favourite amongst brewers, with a light, tart and floral profile, and a bright, eye-catching pink colour. “The flavour derived from hibiscus is berry-like, fruity and floral – and works nicely in saison and gose, as well as IPAs,” explains Waters. “You can add it late in the boil, for a more vibrant colour and character, or as a dry hop addition during secondary fermentation, if you want a more subtle profile.”

Another flower that gives a vibrant colour is butterfly pea, often used to colour drinks, desserts, and rice dishes in Asia. “Butterfly pea can be used in beer, but doesn’t add much flavour,” Waters adds. “You need to be careful with the ph, as otherwise you might get a green or grey hue instead of the vibrant purple you aimed for. Hibiscus is probably a better option, as it also adds a nice tartness to the beer.”

An example of a beer with flowers is Liang Teh by The 1925 Brewing Co. in Singapore, a crisp white chrysanthemum-infused lager. “It’s light and easy on the palate and goes well with deep fried and spicy dishes as well as seafood,” says Yeo Ek, co-founder.

“Chrysanthemums are also used in traditional medicine so if you add too much, it might remind people of medicine. As always with beer, it’s important to get the balance right.”

Endless possibilities and the king of fruits

With an abundance of fruits and vegetables, brewers in Asia produce delicious beers with peaches, plums, kiwis, lychees and citrus fruits, and more. “Brewers are using more local ingredients, playing with flavours and experimenting with exotic ingredients – from spices to vegetables and fruits,” says Sheila Sarmiento, quality assurance manager at Engkanto Brewery in the Philippines. “In a way, we get a glimpse of the culture where the beer is actually brewed.”

Chad Mitchell, founder of MixTape Drinks in Vietnam, is also excited about the range of flavors available in Asia. “I’ve had Pho flavoured beer, garlic additions, and other exciting things like Sichuan peppercorn that make your tongue tingle,” he says. “Brewers here are constantly trying to recreate food in beer form, so it’s a wild adventure in flavours. But the best part is seeing the delight in new craft drinkers as they experience a beer they’ve never thought possible!”

However, there is divided opinion on using durian fruit in beer. Called the king of fruits, durian has a creamy flesh with a subtly sweet and savoury flavour – and is renowned for its strong, pungent aroma. “Durian is the most unique flavour in Asian beers,” says Alvin Lim, founder of PaperKiteBeer in Malaysia. “Personally, I love durian but I never knew that it could be used in beer. I’ve had a few homebrews with durian, but nothing matches Musang King Ale by The 1925 Brewing Co.”

Yeo, co-founder of The 1925 Brewing Co., admits that durian is controversial and risky, as the strong smell might linger and contaminate other beers.

“We want to showcase local ingredients and flavours, and felt that we had to show how good durian can be in beer. In Musang King Ale, we’ve used a type of durian that’s sweeter and creamier, a bit like custard. Using pale ale as a base and balancing the flavour with mango puree, for a tropical hit, we’ve achieved higher drinkability.”

Beers for the local palate – and sweet-tooth

Food and beer are inseparable in Asia, and brewers need to take into account the local palate. “Whilst beers from the US tend to be strong, either bitter or sweet, when it comes to beer flavours, we prefer beers that are balanced and easy-drinking – beers that pair well with food,” says Tian. “If you think of Asian cooking, ingredients like lemongrass and Sichuan peppercorn might come to mind. Often, you will find these ingredients in our beers as well.”

Mitch Gribov at Singapore-based Brewerkz is no stranger to playing with culinary concepts.

“Singapore is a fusion of cultures and the variety of food is enormous,” he says. A beer that has turned heads is an amber lager brewed to replicate a dish called rendang: beef cooked in gravy with freshly grated coconut – plenty of umami character. “This was a crazy, but super fun project. The dish has spices, dried chilli flakes, fresh ginger and lemongrass. We launched the beer at a local craft beer festival, and it was well received!”

Brewers also like to recreate dessert flavours, with intentional nostalgia. A popular ingredient is pandan, which is added to desserts or to flavoured rice.

“It looks like grass, with a character similar to vanilla, and is usually added during the last 10 minutes of the boil, just like hops,” says Gribov. Another example of dessert-like beer is imperial stout brewed with coconut and coconut sugar, and a fruited beer resembling a soft drink with rose water, ice cream powder and cherries. “It’s sentimental for many locals, they say that it reminds them of being a kid.”

Certain flavours resonate, and this is why craft beer is indeed a local product. “There are many ways to achieve a sense of place, including ingredients, craftsmanship, and flavour adjustments to suit the local palate,” adds Tian.

“Craft beer is an open and inclusive alcoholic beverage. For new beer consumers, familiar flavours can make them fall in love with craft beer, acting as a gateway to the broader world of beer. For connoisseurs, interesting beers made with local adjuncts can refresh their perspective and keep them curious. With the fifth element, we have countless possibilities.”

For more on craft beer in China, you can check out beermatters.cn

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