91 Des Rocs Bruin, Brasserie Abbaye des Rocs (Belgium). 9% ABV (5/06) Dark hazy copper color. Fresh lemon peel and
These are complex dark beers most closely associated with the town of Oudenaarde in Flanders. The authentic examples are medium- to full-bodied beers that are influenced by a number of factors: high bicarbonate in the brewing water to give a frothy texture; a complex mix of yeasts and malts; blending of aged beers; and aging in bottle before release. In the best examples, the flavor profile is reminiscent of olives, raisins and brown spices, and could be described as “sweet and sour.” These beers are not hop-accented and are of low bitterness.
These are also known as “soured beers” and their defining character classically comes from having been aged for some years in well-used, large wooden tuns, to allow bacterial action in the beer and thus impart the sharp “sour” character. Hops do not play much role in the flavor profile of these beers, but whole cherries can be macerated with the young beer to produce a cherry-flavored Belgian red ale. These styles are almost exclusively linked to one producer in northern Belgium, Rodenbach. These ales are among the most distinctive and refreshing to be found anywhere.
Belgian golden ales are pale to golden in color with a lightish body for their deceptive alcoholic punch, as much as 9 percent alcohol by volume. The benchmark example, Duvel (Devil) from Belgium, is quite heavily hopped to give a floral nose and a tangy, fruity finish. Typically, such brews undergo three fermentations, the final one being in the bottle, resulting in fine champagne-like carbonation, and a huge rocky white head when they are poured. Often such beers can be cellared for six months to a year to gain roundness. These beers are probably best served chilled to minimize the alcoholic mouthfeel.
This is a not a classic style, but nonetheless encapsulates various beers of a similar Belgian theme that do not fit into the more classic mold. Expect amber-hued, fruity and moderately strong ales (6 percent ABV) with a yeasty character. Typical examples of the style would be Flemish beers such as De Koninck and Straffe Hendrik.
This is not a classic style of Belgian ale, but covers the more commercially-minded Belgian ales that are lighter in color and moderate in body and alcoholic strength. Fruity Belgian yeast character and mild hopping should be expected.
Kölsch is an ale style emanating from Cologne in Germany. In Germany (and the European Community) the term is strictly legally limited to the beers from within the city environs of Cologne. Simply put, kölsch has the color of a pilsner with some of the fruity character of an ale. This is achieved with the use of top-fermenting yeasts and pale pilsner malts. The hops are accented on the finish, which classically is dry and herbal. It is a medium- to light-bodied beer and delicate in style. Most examples in the United States are brewpub draft interpretations produced during the summer months, though some commercial brewers produce a summer ale in the kölsch style.
Put simply, an altbier has the smoothness of a classic lager with the flavors of an ale. A more rigorous definition must take history into account. Ale brewing in Germany predates the now predominant lager production. As the lager process spread from Bohemia, some brewers retained the top-fermenting ale process but adopted the cold maturation associated with lager—hence the name “old beer” (alt means old in German). Altbier is associated with Düsseldorf, Munster and Hanover. This style of ale is light- to medium-bodied, less fruity, less yeasty, and has lower acidity than a traditional English ale. In the United States, some amber ales are actually in the alt style.
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This category is legally mandated in states where any lager stronger than 5 percent alcohol by volume cannot call itself a lager beer. There are a number commercial brands that have been created to fill this category, many of which do not have great merit from the connoisseur’s perspective. Many malt liquors achieve their greater alcoholic strength through the use of adjunct grains—corn or rice—that add little flavor. Some strong European lagers are forced to adopt this labeling moniker for the U.S. market.



